Some Calif. Vintners Turn to Agave

Here's why some California winegrape growers are planting agave plants: The state has imposed water restrictions, the grape business is in the bottom of the barrel (I was going to say "dumps," but bottom of the barrel just sounded better), it's cheaper to plant and cultivate, require less water and maintenance.

But – they won't be producing tequila or mezcal, due to rules of denomination of origin. And California has very little local distilling capacity.

But in a market where wine sales were down 5% last year, and vodka, whiskey and other liquors each contracted by at least 1.5% over the 52 weeks ended Sept. 9, according to Circana, the fact that tequila's growth was flat is an inspiration.

Don't expect California agave – whaever it is called eventually – bto be commercialkly available until 2028 or 2029. Then the biggest challenge will be to get people to try it. “For most people, when you tell them it’s like sparkling wine and Champagne, they’re like, ‘Oh I get it,’” Jeff O'Neill, president/CEO, O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, said. “It’s a pretty easy explanation and it’s just getting people aware that we’re actually doing it in California.”